You can grow a new ZZ plant from a stem cutting, a single leaflet, or a division of the underground rhizomes.
All three work because Zamioculcas zamiifolia stores water and energy in thick rhizomes and swollen stem bases, so even a small piece can live for months while it forms roots.
For most home gardeners, I recommend a stem cutting rooted in water: it roots in about 1 to 2 months, you can watch the roots form, and you start with a full leafy stem. Division is faster if your plant is big and crowded.
Leaflets are the slowest, often 6 to 9 months before a shoot appears. Whichever route you pick, the hard part is waiting, since the first new shoot can take 6 months or more.
Which ZZ Plant Propagation Method Should You Choose?
Pick division if you want a full-size plant right away, a stem cutting if you want a reliable start without unpotting anything, and leaflets if you want many plants from very little material.
Each method trades speed for convenience in a different way. If you are stocking up, a pair of bypass pruners is the first thing I would pick up.
Compare Stem Cuttings, Leaf Cuttings, and Division
Here’s how ZZ plant propagation methods stack up side by side.
| Stem cutting | Leaf (leaflet) cutting | Division | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Time to roots | 1 to 2 months | 1 to 3 months | No wait |
| Time to first new shoot | 6+ months | 6 to 9 months | Already leafy |
| Success rate | High | Moderate | Highest |
| Effort | Low | Low | Medium, messy |
| Plant size needed | Any healthy plant | Any healthy plant | Large, crowded plant |
A stem cutting gives you one upright frond that already looks like a small plant. A leaflet gives you a tiny bulb-like rhizome and, eventually, a short new stem.
Division hands you two or more established plants in an afternoon. It also shrinks an overgrown parent so it fits its spot again.
Choose Based on Speed, Reliability, and Effort
For the least risk, division wins. It works best when you’re already due to repot, which is every 2 to 3 years or when rhizomes crowd the pot.
If your plant is small or you don’t want to disturb its roots, take a stem cutting. It’s my go-to for broken stems too, since a snapped stalk is a free cutting.
Leaflets make sense when you want to share plants widely or when a few leaves fall off. Start 4 to 6 at once, since not every leaflet will form a rhizome.
When Should You Take a Cutting, and What Do You Need?
Spring through summer is the best time, because warm rooms and longer days help cuttings root faster. You’ll also need a clean blade, gloves, and a container with fresh water or fast-draining mix.
Choose a Healthy Plant and the Right Season
A ZZ plant cutting can root any time of year, but winter cuttings in a cool room can sit for months with no change. I’d aim for April through August, when indoor temperatures sit in the 65 to 79°F range.
Pick a parent with firm, glossy stems and no yellow or mushy spots. Choose a mature stem from a plant with several stems so the pot doesn’t look bare after you cut.
- Northeast and Midwest: wait until your heat is off and windows get stronger spring light.
- Southeast and Southwest: start as early as March, but keep cuttings out of hot afternoon sun.
- Pacific Northwest: late spring to midsummer gives you the brightest days.
Prepare Clean Tools, Gloves, and a Rooting Container
ZZ plants contain calcium oxalate crystals, and the sap can irritate skin. Wear gloves and wash your hands afterward.
The ZZ plant isn’t on the ASPCA’s toxic plant list, but chewing it can still cause mouth irritation, drooling, pawing at the mouth, and vomiting in pets.
If you share your home with a curious cat, read my guide to ZZ plants and cats before setting jars on a low sill.
Gather these supplies:
- Sharp knife or pruners wiped with rubbing alcohol
- Gloves
- Clear glass or jar for water rooting
- Small pot (3 to 4 inches) with a drainage hole
- Fast-draining mix, such as potting mix with perlite or pumice
- Paper towel for letting cut ends dry
How to Root a ZZ Plant Stem Cutting in Water
Water rooting is the easiest way to watch ZZ plant cuttings form roots, and it’s how I’d suggest you start. Short stems with a few leaves root faster than long ones, and fresh water keeps rot away.
Cut a Healthy Stem and Remove Submerged Leaves
Cut a stem at or near the soil line, or take a 4 to 8 inch top section with several leaflets. Shorter stems root faster, while long stalks can take many months.
Pull off any leaflets that would sit below the water. Let the cut end dry for an hour or two out of direct sun so it seals over.
Set the stem in a glass with about 1 to 3 inches of room-temperature water. Only the bottom of the stem should be wet.
Keep the Water Fresh While Roots Develop
Change the water every 5 to 7 days, or sooner if it turns cloudy. Rinse the glass each time so slime doesn’t build up.
Keep the jar in bright indirect light and at normal room temperature. Expect the first white roots in about 3 to 6 weeks, sometimes longer in cooler rooms.
Know When the Cutting Is Ready for Soil
Move the cutting to soil when roots reach 1 to 2 inches long. If you see a small, pale bump forming at the base, that’s a new rhizome, and it’s a great sign.
Don’t leave it in water for good. Rhizomes that stay submerged for long stretches are prone to rot, so move it into mix once the roots are ready.
How to Root a ZZ Plant Stem Cutting in Soil
Rooting straight in soil skips the transplant step and lets the cutting build a rhizome where it’ll live. You just can’t see progress, so patience and dry-leaning watering matter here.
Choose a Small Pot and Fast-Draining Mix
Use a 3 to 4 inch pot with a drainage hole. A big pot holds extra moist soil around a rootless stem, which invites rot.
Fill it with a well-draining potting mix. I like regular potting mix blended about half and half with perlite or pumice, or part cactus mix. For ready-made options, see my picks for the best potting soil for a ZZ plant.
Plant the Stem Without Burying Its Leaves
Let the cut end dry for a few hours first. Then push the stem 1 to 2 inches into the mix and firm the soil around it so it stands upright.
Keep all leaflets above the soil line. A tall stem may need a small stake until roots anchor it.
Water Sparingly While the Cutting Establishes
Give the mix a light watering to settle it. After that, water only when the top inch feels dry, roughly every 1 to 2 weeks while rooting.
Well-draining soil should feel barely moist, never soggy. After about a month, a gentle tug that meets resistance tells you roots have formed.
Can You Start a New ZZ Plant From One Leaflet?
Yes, a single healthy leaflet can grow into a new plant. It forms a small rhizome and roots first, then sends up a shoot, usually 6 to 9 months later.
This is the slowest form of ZZ plant propagation, but it costs the parent almost nothing.
Remove and Plant a Whole, Healthy Leaflet
Pick firm, dark green leaflets from a mature stem. Pull or snip each one where it meets the stem, keeping the small base (the petiole) intact.
Let them dry for a few hours to a day. Push each leaflet about half an inch into moist, fast-draining mix, base down, spacing them about 2 inches apart.
You can also stand a leaflet in a shallow glass of water. Change it often and pot it up once roots reach about an inch.
Allow Extra Time for a Rhizome and New Shoot
Leaflets root best near 80°F. A seedling heat mat or a loosely tented clear bag helps, as long as you open it weekly for fresh air.
Keep the mix lightly moist, never wet. The original leaflet may yellow and wither once the rhizome forms, which is normal. The tiny bulb underneath is doing the work, and new shoots on dark types like ‘Raven’ start out bright green.
How to Divide ZZ Plant Rhizomes
Division is the fastest and most reliable way to multiply Zamioculcas zamiifolia, because each piece already has roots, rhizomes, and stems. It works best on a crowded plant that’s ready for repotting.
Separate Sections That Have Rhizomes and Roots
Stop watering for about 2 weeks so the root ball is dry and easier to handle. Slide the plant out of its pot, squeezing a plastic pot or running a trowel around the edge if it sticks.
Shake off old soil so you can see the potato-like rhizomes. Look for natural clumps that each have at least one or two stems and their own roots.
Tease the clumps apart by hand. If rhizomes are fused, make one clean cut with a sterile knife and let the cut surfaces dry in the shade for a few hours. Trim off any soft, dark, smelly roots.
Pot Each Division Without Crowding It
Choose pots only 1 to 2 inches wider than each root mass. Set each division