Yes, lemongrass comes back every year, but only where winters stay frost-free or where you protect it from cold.
Lemongrass returns on its own outdoors in USDA zones 10 and 11, often survives zone 9 with mulch and frost cover, and comes back in zones 8 and colder only if you overwinter it indoors or in cool, dormant storage.
West Indian lemongrass is a tropical grass, so the first hard frost blackens the leaves. A deeper freeze kills the crown.
If you know your zone and act before nights turn cold, you can keep the same clump going for years instead of buying a new plant every spring.
The Short Answer: a Perennial That Can’t Take Frost
Lemongrass is a true perennial that lives for many years, as long as it never freezes solid. Gardeners ask “does lemongrass come back every year” because it acts like an annual across most of the US, even though botanically it isn’t one. If you are stocking up, a pot with drainage holes is the first thing I would pick up.
So, is lemongrass a perennial? Yes. It’s a tender perennial that does well in Florida’s warm climate, and a frost-tender plant that needs winter protection farther north.
Here’s how frost does its damage:
- Light frost (around 32°F): The leaf blades turn brown and papery, but the crown at soil level often stays alive.
- Hard freeze (below about 28°F for several hours): Cold reaches the base of the stalks and the roots, and the plant usually dies.
- Cold, wet soil: Even without a hard freeze, soggy winter soil rots a stressed crown.
My advice is simple. Treat 40°F nights as your warning sign and 32°F as the deadline. Lemongrass stops growing once nights fall into the 40s, and it can’t heal frost damage while it’s sitting still.
What Happens to Lemongrass in Winter by USDA Zone?
Whether lemongrass will grow back after winter depends on how cold your zone gets. Use this table to find your plan.
| USDA zone | Typical winter low | What happens outdoors | My recommendation |
|---|---|---|---|
| 11 | Above 40°F | Stays green, grows slowly | Leave it in the ground |
| 10 | 30 to 40°F | Some leaf browning, roots fine | Leave it, mulch lightly |
| 9 | 20 to 30°F | Tops die back, crown often survives | Cut back, mulch, use frost cloth |
| 8 | 10 to 20°F | Usually dies | Pot it up and bring it inside |
| 7 and colder | Below 10°F | Dies | Overwinter indoors or replant yearly |
In the US, zones 10 and 11 cover South Florida, the southern tip of Texas, coastal Southern California, parts of southern Arizona, and Hawaii. Zone 9 includes north and central Florida, the Gulf Coast, much of Central Texas, and inland California valleys.
The Midwest, Northeast, Pacific Northwest interior, and most of the upper Southeast fall into zones 8 and colder. There, a plant left outside after frost almost never comes back.
Why Lemongrass Returns Outdoors in Zones 10 and 11
Lemongrass comes back in zones 10 and 11 because the ground never gets cold enough to hurt the crown or roots.
Cymbopogon citratus, the West Indian lemongrass sold for cooking, comes from tropical Southeast Asia, and these zones are the closest the mainland US gets to that climate.
What Does Winter Growth Look Like in Warm Climates?
In winter, a zone 10 or 11 clump slows down and looks a little tired. The outer leaves yellow and brown at the tips, and you’ll see few new shoots for a month or two.
That’s normal. The plant is resting through shorter days and cooler nights, not dying.
During this slow period I’d do three things:
- Cut watering back so the top inch of soil dries out between drinks.
- Skip fertilizer until spring.
- Pull or cut off fully brown outer stalks at the base so air reaches the center of the clump.
If you get a rare dip into the low 30s, throw a sheet or frost cloth over the plant overnight. That one step protects the leaves you’ll want to harvest in spring.
When Does Active Growth Resume?
Lemongrass starts growing hard again once nights stay above about 60°F. In South Florida that’s often by March; in coastal California it may be April or May.
You’ll see bright green shoots pushing up from the center of the clump. That’s the time to cut tired leaves back to 3 to 5 inches and start feeding every 2 to 3 weeks with a balanced or nitrogen-rich fertilizer.
Give it at least six hours of direct sun as well. If your clump sits in a shady spot, check how much sun lemongrass needs before you move it.
How Can You Protect Lemongrass Outdoors in Zone 9?
In zone 9 you can often keep lemongrass outdoors by cutting it back, mulching the crown, and covering it on frost nights. The goal is to keep the base above freezing and the soil from staying wet, because both cold and rot kill the plant.
Mulch the Crown Without Trapping Moisture
Start in late fall, before your first frost. Cut the stalks down to 6 to 12 inches with sharp shears.
Then spread 3 to 4 inches of loose straw or shredded leaves around the clump, out to about a foot from the base. Loose mulch holds ground heat and still lets air move.
Keep these points in mind:
- Pull mulch back an inch from the stalks so they don’t sit against damp material.
- Skip heavy wood chips or wet grass clippings, which mat down and hold water.
- In clay soil, which is common across the Gulf Coast and Central Texas, plant in a raised mound so winter rain drains away from the crown.
Use Frost Cloth During Cold Snaps
Mulch protects the roots, but the stalks need a cover on nights forecast below 32°F. Drape frost cloth or a floating row cover over the cut-back clump so it reaches the ground on all sides.
Hold the edges down with bricks or rocks so cold air can’t slide underneath. The cover traps warmth rising from the soil, which works best when the cloth touches the ground.
Remove the cover the next morning once temperatures climb above freezing. Leaving it on for days traps moisture and invites mold.
For extra help, plant lemongrass near a south-facing wall or fence. That spot soaks up daytime heat and releases it at night.
Know When Outdoor Protection Isn’t Enough
Protection buys a few degrees, and that’s all. If your forecast calls for several hours in the low 20s or teens, I’d dig up a division and pot it as backup.
That happens in zone 9 more often than people expect. Cold snaps reach Houston, Austin, and north Florida every few years.
I’d also bring a backup inside if:
- Your plant is young and went in the ground that same year.
- Your soil stays soggy for weeks in winter.
- You’re in zone 9a, the colder half of the zone.
A small pot on a sunny windowsill means you won’t lose your lemongrass if the outdoor clump doesn’t make it.
How to Keep Lemongrass Alive in Zones 8 and Colder
In zones 8 and colder, you keep lemongrass by digging it up and bringing it indoors before cold nights. You can grow it as a houseplant in a bright window or hold it cool and nearly dormant until spring.
Dig, Divide, and Pot It Before Cold Nights
Knowing how to overwinter lemongrass starts with timing. Dig before nights drop below 50°F, which is usually mid-September in the upper Midwest and Northeast and October farther south.
Here’s the process I recommend:
- Water the clump the day before so the roots hold together.
- Dig a few inches out from the base with a sharp spade and lift the whole clump.
- Pry or cut it into sections of 2 to 4 stalks, each with its own roots.
- Trim the leaves to 6 to 12 inches so the plant loses less water.
- Pot each division in fresh potting mix in a container at least 12 inches wide with drainage holes.
- Leave the pots in a shady spot outdoors for about a week, then rinse the leaves to wash off any insects before moving them inside.
Plastic, glazed ceramic, or fabric grow bags all work well for lemongrass in pots. I’d skip terracotta indoors because it dries out too fast in heated homes.
If you plan on growing lemongrass in pots year-round, my guide to grow lemongrass in pots covers sizing and soil.
Keep Potted Plants Growing Indoors
My first choice is keeping the plant actively growing. Set it in your sunniest south-facing window or under a grow light for 10 or more hours a day.
Keep the room between 60 and 75°F, away from heat vents and cold drafts. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry, and don’t let the pot sit in a saucer of water.
Dry indoor air invites spider mites, so look under the leaves every week or two. A humidity tray or nearby humidifier helps.
Hold off on fertilizer and heavy harvests until spring. For more on window placement and light, see how to grow lemongrass indoors.
Store Divisions Dormant When Indoor Light Is Limited
If you have no bright window, you can hold potted divisions in a cool, dim spot. A basement or attached garage that stays between 50 and 60°F works.
Cut the stalks down to a few inches. Water lightly about once a month, just enough to keep the roots from drying out completely.
This method is less reliable than a sunny window. Lemongrass has no true dormant period, so some divisions won’t make it, and I’d store at least three to improve your odds. Don’t let the space drop below 40°F.
Is Your Brown Lemongrass Dormant or Dead?
Brown leaves alone don’t mean your lemongrass is dead. The leaves die back in cold weather even when the crown is healthy, so check the base and roots before you give up.
Check the Crown and Roots for Firm, Living Tissue
Peel away the outer brown layers on a few stalks near the soil. If the inner core is pale green, white, or cream and feels firm and bendy, the plant is alive.
Next, dig gently at the edge of the clump or slide a potted plant out of its container. Healthy roots are firm and white to light tan.
Signs the plant is gone:
- Stalk bases feel mushy or hollow.
- Roots are black, slimy, or smell sour.