A money tree is one of the easiest big houseplants you can grow indoors.
Good money tree care comes down to bright, indirect light, watering only when the top 2 inches of soil are dry, and a fast-draining pot so the roots never sit in water. Get those three right and this tropical tree will stay green and full for a decade or more.
Most money tree problems trace back to one mistake: too much water. This wetland native looks thirsty, yet soggy soil kills more indoor money trees than anything else.
My advice is to learn to read the soil and the leaves, because they tell you what this houseplant needs long before it starts to decline.
Money Tree Care at a Glance
Your money tree wants bright indirect light, well-draining soil, and steady warmth, and it forgives small slips as long as the roots stay healthy. Use this chart as your quick reference for this indoor plant. If you are stocking up, a good potting mix is the first thing I would pick up.
| Care need | What I recommend |
|---|---|
| Light | Bright indirect light; medium light is OK |
| Water | When the top 2 inches are dry, about every 1 to 2 weeks |
| Humidity | 50% or higher is ideal; average home air works |
| Temperature | 65 to 80°F; never below 50°F |
| Soil | Fast-draining peat- or coir-based mix with perlite or pine bark |
| Fertilizer | Half-strength balanced liquid, monthly in spring and summer |
| Repotting | Every 2 to 3 years in spring, 1 to 2 inches wider |
| Pets | Non-toxic to cats and dogs, per the ASPCA |
Keep this chart handy for the first few months. After that, you’ll know your plant’s rhythm by feel.
What Is a Money Tree?
A money tree is Pachira aquatica, a tropical tree from wet lowlands that nurseries grow into compact, braided houseplants. People also call it a money plant, which causes some mix-ups with pothos.
Indoors it stays far smaller than in the wild, and you control the size with pruning.
Pachira aquatica and Its Wetland Origins
Pachira aquatica grows along streams, swamps, and riverbanks in Central and South America. In those soggy spots, its roots get plenty of water but also plenty of air, since the water keeps moving.
That’s the key to growing it in a pot. Stagnant, wet potting mix has none of that air, so the roots rot. Your job is to give it regular drinks and then let the extra drain away fast.
Each leaf has five glossy leaflets spread like a hand. In feng shui, those five leaflets stand for the five elements, and the tree is said to bring luck.
That’s a cultural tradition, not science, but it explains why money trees show up as gifts for new homes and businesses.
Why Are Money Tree Trunks Braided?
Braided money trees are several young trunks grown in one pot and twisted together while they’re still green and bendy. Wild trees never braid themselves. Growers do it because it looks striking and because braiding is said to “lock in” good fortune.
Most store plants have 3 or 5 trunks. As the trunks thicken, they press against each other and can fuse in spots. That’s normal.
Two things to watch:
- Hidden ties. Growers often leave a tie or band at the top or base of the braid. As trunks thicken, it can cut into the bark, so I’d check and loosen ties every few months.
- A dead trunk. If one trunk turns soft or hollow, cut it out at the base so rot doesn’t spread to the healthy ones.
How Large Can a Money Tree Grow Indoors?
Indoors, a money tree usually reaches 6 to 8 feet tall with time. In the wild it can top 60 feet, so it has plenty of drive.
A healthy plant in good light can add up to 2 feet a year. Regular spring pruning keeps most indoor trees in a tidy 3 to 6 foot range, which suits a living room corner nicely.
How Much Light Does a Money Tree Need?
Bright indirect light keeps a money tree full and leafy, though it will put up with medium light. Gentle morning sun is fine. Hot afternoon sun burns the leaves.
Choosing a Spot with Bright, Indirect Light
My first pick is a spot near an east-facing window, where it gets soft morning sun and bright light the rest of the day. A few feet back from a south or west window also works, especially with a sheer curtain to filter the glare.
North windows are usually too dim for strong growth, though a money tree will hang on there. If your home is dark, a full-spectrum grow light set 12 to 24 inches above the plant for 10 to 12 hours a day fills the gap.
Rotate the pot a quarter turn every week or two. Money trees lean hard toward the window, and turning keeps the canopy even.
In the Southeast and Southwest, summer sun through glass gets intense, so pull the plant farther from west windows from June through August. In the Northeast and Pacific Northwest, winter light is weak, and you can move it closer to the glass.
Recognizing Too Much or Too Little Sun
Your plant shows light stress clearly.
Too much sun:
- Pale, bleached, or yellow-white patches on leaves
- Crispy brown edges on the side facing the window
- Leaves curling or cupping in the afternoon
Too little sun:
- Long, bare stems with big gaps between leaves
- Small new leaves
- Lower leaves yellowing and dropping
- Soil staying wet for two weeks or longer
Move the plant gradually, a few feet at a time over a week or so. Money trees dislike sudden changes and will drop leaves if you shift them from a dim corner straight into a sunny window.
When and How Should You Water a Money Tree?
Water your money tree when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry, which works out to roughly every 1 to 2 weeks indoors. Skip the calendar and check the soil instead.
Pot size, light, and season all change how fast it dries. For a deeper schedule, see my guide on how often to water a money tree.
Check the Top 2 Inches of Soil Before Watering
Push your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle, which is about 2 inches. If it feels dry there, it’s time to water. If it’s cool and damp, wait a few days and check again.
A wooden chopstick works too. Push it down, pull it out after a minute, and look for dark, damp soil clinging to it.
When you’re unsure, wait. A money tree bounces back from a short dry spell much more easily than from soggy roots.
Water Thoroughly Without Leaving the Pot in Runoff
When you water, soak the whole root ball. I like to set the pot in the sink and pour slowly until water runs out the drainage holes.
Let it drain for 10 to 15 minutes before putting it back. Never leave the pot standing in a full saucer or a decorative cachepot with water pooled at the bottom. That standing water is the fastest route to root rot.
Room-temperature tap water is fine for most homes. If your water is very hard, flush the pot with extra water every few months to wash out mineral buildup.
Adjust Watering as Growth Slows in Winter
From about October through February, money trees grow slowly, and the soil stays wet longer. Expect to water every 2 to 3 weeks instead of weekly.
Keep checking the soil with your finger. Homes with forced-air heat, common across the Midwest and Northeast, dry out faster than you’d guess, so some plants still need a drink every 10 days. Let the soil decide.
What Humidity and Temperature Keep It Healthy?
Money trees grow best at 65 to 80°F with humidity around 50% or higher, yet they handle normal home air without trouble. Cold drafts and blasts of dry heat cause far more damage than average humidity does.
Managing Dry Indoor Air
Winter heating can drop indoor humidity below 30%, and that’s when you’ll see crispy brown leaf tips. A cheap hygrometer tells you where your home stands.
Ways to add moisture:
- Run a humidifier near the plant. This is my top choice because it raises humidity steadily.
- Group plants together. Leaves release moisture, so a cluster stays a bit more humid.
- Use a pebble tray. Fill a tray with pebbles and water, and set the pot on top so it sits above the water line.
Misting feels helpful, but the effect fades within minutes. A humidifier does far more.
Avoiding Drafts, Heat Vents, and Cold Nights
Keep your money tree at least 3 feet from heat vents, radiators, and AC units. Hot, dry air crisps leaves, and cold air from an AC unit shocks them.
Drafty doors and single-pane windows are another problem in winter. Leaves touching cold glass can brown or drop. If you see sudden leaf drop in November or December, feel for a draft near the plant.
Below 50°F, a money tree starts to suffer. Damage builds fast the colder it gets.
Moving a Money Tree Outdoors for Summer
Money trees can live outside year-round only in USDA zones 10 to 12, such as South Florida, parts of Southern California, and Hawaii. Everywhere else, they can spend summer outdoors and come back in for winter.
Wait until nights stay above 55°F, then start in full shade for a week before moving to bright shade. A covered porch or the north side of the house works well. Direct summer sun will scorch leaves that grew indoors.
Bring it back inside before night temperatures drop below 50°F. Check the leaves and soil for bugs before it comes in, and expect a few leaves to drop as it adjusts.
Which Soil and Pot Should You Use?
A money tree needs fast-draining soil and a pot with drainage holes. Those two choices prevent most root rot before it starts. My full breakdown on the best soil for a money tree covers specific blends.
Choosing a Loose Mix That Drains Well
Pick a well-draining potting mix based on peat or coconut coir. Plain bagged potting soil holds too much water for my taste, so I add drainage material.
A simple recipe I like:
- 2 parts peat- or coir-based potting mix
- 1 part perlite
- 1 part fine pine bark
This well-draining soil holds enou