Money trees root from stem cuttings, and it’s one of the easiest ways to turn one houseplant into two.
To propagate a money tree, cut a 6- to 8-inch green stem with at least two nodes, strip the lower leaves, and root it in water or moist potting mix in bright indirect light at 70 to 80°F.
Expect roots in about 4 to 8 weeks.
The plant is Pachira aquatica, also sold as Malabar chestnut, and it comes from the wetlands of Central and South America. That swampy background explains why cuttings handle water well but rot fast in soggy, cold conditions.
Get warmth and moisture balanced, and you can share new plants with friends or keep a backup of a favorite tree.
Which Propagation Method Should You Choose?
Stem cuttings are my pick for almost every home gardener, because they’re free, fast, and copy your plant exactly. Water and soil both work for money tree propagation; seeds and air layering fit narrower situations.
Stem Cuttings in Water vs. Soil
Water rooting lets you watch roots form through a clear jar, which makes it the friendliest choice if you’ve never propagated anything. The trade-off is that water roots are thin and tender, so the cutting has to adjust once it moves into soil.
Soil rooting hides the action, but the roots that form are tougher and already used to potting mix. You skip the transplant step that stresses water-rooted cuttings.
| Feature | Water | Soil |
|---|---|---|
| Can you see roots? | Yes | No |
| Root strength | Thin, tender | Sturdier |
| Upkeep | Weekly water changes | Check moisture every few days |
| Transplant stress | Higher | Lower |
| Best for | First-timers | Fewer steps overall |
If you want my opinion, try both at once with two cuttings. You’ll learn quickly which suits your home.
Growing From Seed and When to Consider Air Layering
Seeds work if you can get fresh ones, but indoor money trees rarely flower, so you’d need to buy seeds or collect them from an outdoor tree in a frost-free area.
Plant each seed about 1/2 inch deep in its own pot of pre-moistened mix. Seed is the slowest route to a decent-sized plant.
Air layering roots a branch while it’s still attached to the parent. I’d save it for thick, woody stems that won’t root well as cuttings, which I cover in the braided tree section below.
The Best Time and Tools for Taking Cuttings
Spring through early summer is the best window, and the tool list is short: something sharp, something clean, and a container to root in.
Why Spring and Early Summer Give Cuttings a Better Start
Your money tree is growing hardest from about April through July, so a cutting taken then has more energy stored for making roots. Longer days and warmer rooms help too. Cuttings root fastest at 70 to 80°F.
Fall and winter cuttings can still root, but slower. In the Northeast and Midwest, dry heated air and cold drafts near windows work against them, so place winter cuttings well away from vents and glass.
In the Southeast and Southwest, warm indoor temperatures make late-summer cuttings a reasonable bet too.
I’d also take the cutting in the morning, a day after watering the parent plant, so the stem is full of moisture.
What to Gather Before You Cut
Set everything out first so the fresh cut doesn’t sit drying while you hunt for a jar:
- Sharp pruners or scissors, wiped with rubbing alcohol before and after
- A clear glass jar or vase for water rooting
- A 4-inch pot with drainage holes for soil rooting
- Fast-draining potting mix with extra perlite
- Rooting hormone (optional)
- A clear plastic bag and a couple of chopsticks to hold it off the leaves
Rooting hormone is a powder or gel that encourages root cells to form at the cut. It’s helpful with slow rooters like money trees, though plenty of cuttings root without it.
How to Take a Healthy Money Tree Cutting
Good money tree cuttings come from firm, green stems with healthy leaves and at least two leaf nodes. The cut itself takes a minute.
Choose a Green Stem With at Least Two Nodes
Leaf nodes are the small bumps on the stem where a leaf attaches. Roots grow from these spots, so a cutting without a node won’t grow into a plant.
Pick a stem that’s green and bendable, since young growth roots far more readily than brown, woody trunk. Skip stems with yellow leaves, soft patches, or signs of pests.
If your tree is overdue for shaping anyway, it’s smart to prune a money tree and use the trimmings as cuttings.
Cut a 6- to 8-Inch Stem and Remove Lower Leaves
Follow these steps:
- Measure 6 to 8 inches down from the tip of the stem.
- Make a clean cut about 1/4 inch below a node. An angled cut is fine and gives a little more surface for roots.
- Pull or snip off the leaves on the bottom third to half of the cutting.
- Leave two or three leaves at the top. They feed the cutting through photosynthesis.
- If the remaining leaves are very large, cut each leaflet in half to slow water loss.
The parent plant will push new shoots just below where you cut, usually within a few weeks in the growing season.
How to Root a Cutting in Water
A jar of clean water in bright indirect light is all a money tree cutting needs to start rooting. The job from there is keeping the water fresh.
Submerge a Node Without Wetting the Leaves
Fill a clear jar with room-temperature water. Tap water left out overnight or filtered water both work well. Set the cutting in so at least one node sits under the water, ideally two.
Keep every leaf above the waterline, because submerged leaves rot and foul the water.
Place the jar in bright indirect light, such as a few feet from an east window or beside a south or west window out of the direct rays. Hot afternoon sun heats the water and feeds algae.
If you’re using rooting hormone, dip the cut end in it first, tap off the extra, and lower the cutting in gently.
Refresh the Water and Watch for Roots
Change the water every 3 to 7 days, and sooner if it turns cloudy. Rinse the jar each time to clear slime or algae. Top it off between changes so the node never dries out.
The first sign of progress is small white bumps at the node. These stretch into roots over the following weeks. A leaf or two may drop along the way, which is normal as long as the stem stays firm and green.
How to Root a Cutting in Soil
Rooting directly in mix gives you sturdier roots and skips the move from water. Success comes down to an airy mix and steady, light moisture.
Choose an Airy Mix and a Pot With Drainage
Use a fast-draining peat- or coir-based mix with plenty of perlite. I like about 2 parts potting mix to 1 part perlite for cuttings. The best soil for a money tree follows the same idea, with pine bark added for older plants.
Pick a 4-inch pot with drainage holes. A clear plastic cup with holes poked in the bottom works too and lets you see roots against the side.
To plant:
- Pre-moisten the mix until it feels like a wrung-out sponge.
- Poke a 2- to 3-inch hole with a pencil.
- Dip the cut end in rooting hormone if using it.
- Set the cutting in so at least one node is buried, and firm the mix around it.
Keep the Mix Lightly Moist, Not Soggy
Check the mix every few days and water when the top 1/2 inch starts to feel dry. Pour slowly until a little drains out, then empty the saucer.
Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag propped on chopsticks to hold humidity, especially in dry winter homes. Open the bag for a few minutes every couple of days to let fresh air in.
Keep the pot in bright indirect light; direct sun under plastic overheats a cutting fast.
How Long Does Rooting Take?
Most money tree cuttings show root development within 4 to 8 weeks, though cool rooms or winter cuttings take longer.
What to Expect During the First 4 to 8 Weeks
Here’s a rough timeline for a cutting kept at 70 to 80°F:
- Weeks 1 to 2: Little visible change. The cut end seals over. One leaf may yellow and drop.
- Weeks 2 to 4: White bumps appear at the nodes in water.
- Weeks 4 to 6: Roots lengthen to an inch or more. Soil cuttings start to resist a gentle tug.
- Weeks 6 to 8: Roots branch, and new leaves may start at the tip.
Money trees root slower than pothos or other quick houseplants. A cutting with no roots at three weeks isn’t a failure yet if the stem is still firm.
How to Tell When Roots Are Established
In water, roots are ready for soil when they’re 2 to 3 inches long and have started to branch. Waiting much longer than that makes the shift to soil harder.
In soil, give the stem a gentle tug. If it resists, roots are holding on. A new leaf at the tip is the clearest sign, and in a clear cup you’ll see white roots against the side.
When and How to Pot Up a Rooted Cutting
Move water-rooted cuttings as soon as roots reach 2 to 3 inches, and move soil-rooted cuttings once roots fill their small pot.
Move Water-Rooted Cuttings Into Potting Mix
Fill a 4-inch pot with drainage holes with moist, fast-draining mix. Make a hole deep enough to hold the roots without bending them.
Lift the cutting out of the jar and rinse off any slime. Set it in at the same depth it sat in the water, then firm the mix gently around the stem.
For the first two to three weeks, keep the